When the cause of leprosy was first identified in 1873, up to that point, nobody had a clue what caused it, how it was transmitted and more importantly, how to deal with it.
Although historical records suggest leprosy existed from the middle-ages, it was of course surrounded by other mis-understood viruses too. People died from all sorts of topical ailments throughout the middle ages, and it wasn't until the late 1800's when scientists started to eliminate other diseases that they started researching the odd symptoms of leprosy; blotchy skin, reduced sensations of the nerves, disfiguring skin sores and painful joints, amongst others.
Over the years that followed, various treatments were tested by medical experts (of the time), including virgins blood, voluminous bee stings and snake bites, to name a few. The Greeks even tried lambs blood. But oddly enough, none of these cures seemed to work - and so remained the case for several decades. The battle against leprosy moved from cure to simply nothing more than comforting the people who caught it. One of the unknown problems back then was that nobody realised just how contagious leprosy could be, but the slow burn nature of leprosy, sometimes years, meant that preventing its spread was difficult.
The year is 1943..
Spanish ruler and dictator General Franco emerged victorious from the Spanish Civil War in 1939 but amongst other problems, leprosy was running rife in the Canary Islands. Franco wasn't a man who liked to be pushed around and he wanted leprosy to be culled in the Canaries. Unpleasant illnesses made him nervous as his authority to govern, in his view, stemmed from being seen to govern his country for the better of its people. In reality, most were simply terrified of him.
So, in 1943, on the orders of General Franco, work began on the construction of a huge leper colony "Sanatorio de Abona". By this time, it was well known that one of the ways that the spread of viruses could be slowed, was to isolate people with established symptoms, hence the sprawl of the site. It was purpose designed to help those with the disease to live a relatively trouble free life. In itself, even without a cure, leprosy didn't always result in death but almost certain loss of vision, deformities, kidney failure and permanent damage to the nerves. But, In 1943, these individual symptoms alone could indeed result in death.
The 1940's were progressing however. Medical science was developing at an impressive rate and before anyone really knew anything, a cure had been found for leprosy, in the form of 'dapsone'.
Dapsone was very much a first generation medicine. Leprosy victims often had to take the medication for life and by the 1960's the virus started to develop resistance to Dapsone.
So with a cure identified, the writing was on the wall for Sanatorio de Abona. Construction of the complex was stopped and what you see today, is how it was left, having never been occupied by a single patient.
Conclusion
Sanatorio de Abona in Abades is a must see for anyone touring the island. The buildings are eerily impressive and you can see the video of my visit right here
Incidentally, Leprosy does still exist across certain parts of the world. In 2020, more than 100,000 cases were discovered. Fortunately modern medicine can treat cases very effectively, if discovered early enough.
Directions:
Sanatorio de Abona is relatively easy to find and parking is plentiful. You are best to park in the village of Abades, where it's a short (but steep) walk up to the Sanatorio.
The village of Abades offers a few cafes for lunch and drinks, as well as a lot of free car parking. You can also get to Abades using the excellent island public service buses, Titsa
If you get time, whilst you're in the area, also check out the abandoned satellite dish at Granadilla. It's not far away and a worthwhile trip.
Recommended visit time: 3 hours (including walking time)
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